This time last year, I had my Sunday afternoon planned: my eldest son had a hockey game in Interlaken that evening, and I was thinking about how to spend the time before the game started. I wanted to get above the November fog, but also be back before dark. After all, it was getting dark very early after the time change. The decision on where to go was made quickly: Harder Kulm – a lookout mountain directly above Interlaken, which, surprisingly, I had never visited in my 10 years in Switzerland.
Initially, I thought I would take a proper hike up. But when I saw the 2 hours and 30 minutes posted on the signpost, I paused. Two and a half hours? For four kilometers? It was clear that not only would I be completely exhausted because the elevation gain is quite significant, but I would also definitely miss not only the start of the match, but also the departure of the last funicular from the summit. So I decided to go the other way – up by funicular and down on foot. And as it turned out, it was an excellent decision.
At the valley station of the funicular, I elegantly jumped the queue thanks to a ticket purchased via the SBB app and hopped straight into the carriage, which was leaving in a few minutes.
When I got off at the top after less than ten minutes, my eyes nearly popped out of my head. So many people! The line for the ride down snaked around the corner, and the restaurant terrace and observation deck were literally bursting at the seams. It didn’t take a mathematical genius to figure out that not everyone would make it down according to the schedule – the funicular would probably have to add extra trips.
But I had time, so I headed for the reason I had actually come here – the view over the sea of fog. And it was worth it. Then I hurried down the hill to make it to the game. It was touch and go – both the start of the game and the fact that I arrived in Interlaken almost in the dark. But at least I have another unforgettable experience!
I apologize for the lengthy introduction; I wanted to give you another glimpse into what my trip planning sometimes looks like.
Interlaken
Interlaken, as its name suggests, lies between two lakes: Lake Thun and Lake Brienz. It is a tourist hub in the Bernese Oberland: the town has a great location, where the main train routes from Bern and Lucerne, and even from Montreux, converge, and from here, secondary tracks lead in all directions to the surrounding Alpine valleys. Everything here is geared toward tourists visiting famous places in the area.
By train, you will arrive at Interlaken Ost station. If you arrive by car, you can park right next to the station at Parkplatz on Unterebönigstrasse.
Harderbahn
The Harderbahn cable car station is just a stone’s throw away from the train station/parking lot – more precisely, 500 meters and about a 7-minute walk. The funicular to Harder Kulm was officially opened in 1908. Since then, it has connected the valley station Interlaken Ost (566 m above sea level) with the summit station Harder Kulm (1322 m above sea level). It is just under 1500 meters long and climbs 756 meters in 10 minutes. In honor of the 100th anniversary of the funicular (2008), both cars and the station underwent extensive renovations. The modern red cabins that carry visitors today are named “Interlaken” and “Harder”.
It operates from mid-April to the end of November. The first departure is at 9 a.m., and the last ride closes depending on the season: in summer, it is at 9:40 p.m., and in autumn, at 6:10/5:10 p.m. The funicular runs every 30 minutes. You can find the exact operating hours on the website.
A one-way ticket costs CHF 19, or half that with a Halb-fare Card or Swiss Travel Pass. There are two lines at the funicular – one for those who already have a ticket (e.g., purchased through the SBB app) and one for those buying a ticket. And on Sunday afternoons, when everyone wants to get above the clouds, the difference can be tens of minutes of waiting!
Harder Kulm
Harder Kulm is often referred to as the “Hausberg von Interlaken” – Interlaken’s local mountain. And for tourists, it is the Top of Interlaken. No wonder: the views of the Jungfrau massif and other peaks, including Niesen, are simply spectacular.
Here you will find a panoramic restaurant – the original wooden one was opened in 1908, just like the funicular. After a fire in 2005, the restaurant was completely rebuilt and reopened in a modern style with traditional elements (the typical “tower” has been preserved). Above the restaurant, you will also find a children’s playground and a picnic area. And I think the view from here is even more beautiful than from the observation deck itself.
Viewing platform
Even though I told myself I wouldn’t squeeze in among the tourists, I couldn’t resist. Because the views of the setting autumn sun from here are simply magnificent, let’s be honest.
Harder Kulm – Interlaken route
Just beyond the viewpoint, the descent back to Interlaken begins. Less than half a kilometer later, you will reach the Hardermatte viewpoint, where there is also a fire pit. According to the map, the “Ruine Hotel Alpenrose” should also be located here.
Hardermandli
Then descend more or less along the contour line until you reach another viewpoint.
The last part of the trail is very steep and winding, and I found it a little scary because I was getting into fog and it was getting dark. However, I believe that the gazebo must be a charming place in good weather.
Grand Tour of Switzerland Photo Spot
At the very end, I managed to take a photo in the Grand Tour of Switzerland frame. I already have a nice collection of them. Take a look here in the article.
Summary
Harder Kulm is undoubtedly an icon of Interlaken – a viewpoint that everyone wants to see. But at the same time, it is a popular tourist destination in a popular tourist area. I admit that I naively thought that if I went there at the end of the season, in November, when most of the tourists had long since left, it would be quiet at the top. Well… it wasn’t. It turned out that even a Sunday in November can attract crowds – everyone wanted to catch the last rays of autumn sunshine and the view over the sea of fog.
So it’s actually hard to say when is the best time to go. If you don’t like crowds, the answer may be never. And if you do decide to go, try to do so during the week, ideally in the morning, because most visitors head to Harder Kulm after sunset.
But despite all that… the view is simply worth it.
You can find the elevation profile of the route here. As I said, I went in the opposite direction – from Harder Kulm to Interlaken.
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