It so happened that two of our children had hockey games right after each other on the last Sunday in August, and where else but in Kandersteg. Of course, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit Kandersteg in the Bernese Oberland. But how to combine a hockey marathon with a nice hike?
I didn’t even consider the tourist-riddled Oeschinensee – I wanted something less well-known. I searched and found it: a hike to the picturesque mountain valley of Üschenetal (also known as Ueschinental).
And how did it look at our place on a morning when I wanted to get everything done? We left at half past seven, arrived in Kandersteg at half past eight, quickly parked at the hockey rink, unloaded the kids and their hockey bags, and headed for the cable car to Allmenalp. At nine o’clock, we got off the mini cable car at Allmendalp and set off on the trail. According to the description, it should have taken a little over two hours, but we managed it at a brisk pace and were back at the rink by eleven, just in time to catch half of our daughter’s game and then our son’s entire game.
Hectic? Yes. Was it worth it? Definitely! We discovered another beautiful place that remains somewhat overshadowed by the more famous trails.
Getting to Kandersteg
You can reach Kandersteg via the A6 (from Bern) or A8 (from Lucerne) motorways in the direction of Thun and Spiez. From Spiez, take the exit and continue on the main road towards Frutigen/Kandersteg, which will take you directly to the center of the village. Don’t be tempted by the signs for the Oeschinensee car park; the car park directly at the Allmendalp cable car (paid – CHF 7 per day; Allmenbahnstrasse 23, Kandersteg) is more suitable for this hike.
As always in Switzerland, however, the most convenient option is to travel by train. Kandersteg is situated on the Bern–Brig line, with trains running every half hour. It is only a 15-minute walk from the station to the lower station of the cable car.
Kandersteg Allmenalp Cable Car
The cable car operates daily from mid-May to mid-October, from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. (from June 21 to August 17, the hours are extended to 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.). For this trip, you will only need a one-way ticket, which costs CHF 18 for adults (CHF 14 with Halb-tax/GA/Swiss Travel Pass) and CHF 9 for children aged 6–15.
In 5 minutes, a tiny cable car – one of the steepest in Europe – will take you up to Allmenalp at an altitude of 1,730 meters above sea level. Along the way, you will have a beautiful view of a waterfall.
Allmenalp
From the top station of the Allmenalp cable car, there is a magnificent view down to Kandersteg and also to the Blüemlisalp massif towards Oeschinensee. The route climbs gently along a wide gravel path in a wide arc to the opposite slope.
Towards Ryharts
The route continues with gentle ascents and descents, leading through forests and along alpine pastures. Magnificent views open up before you once again, and a big wow effect awaits you when you come out from behind the bend and the view of the Balmhorngletscher glacier appears in front of you.
To the Üschenetal valley
At Ryharts, the gravel path begins to descend gently and leads you on a pleasant descent into the wide and picturesque high-altitude Üschenetal valley. Soon, its vast panoramas will open up before you. At the Schwymbödi signpost, turn left off the gravel road, as the route continues along a stone wall across alpine pastures down to Usser Üschene.
Back to Kandersteg
From here, the trail descends somewhat steeply along a narrow path through the forest to the village of Eggeschwand. If you feel that your knees are suffering from the steep descent, you can also take the asphalt road. It is longer, but it is a more comfortable route.
Continue along the Kander River to the Scout Center, and from there it’s an easy walk to the lower station of the Allmenalp cable car, or back to the train station in Kandersteg (in our case, to the ice rink).
Summary
- The route is 7.6 km long and is not suitable for strollers or wheelchairs. You can find the elevation profile here.
- It can be walked in both directions, making it perfect for those who prefer walking uphill.
- Refreshments are available in the summer months at Allmen-Beizli, Alp Steinweidli, or Restaurant Lohner.
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