The Swiss landscape never ceases to fascinate me. How else can you park your car in one valley, take a bus up about a thousand vertical meters, and get to the next valley? That’s precisely what Rosenlauital is – a valley hidden in the Haslital region. It will enchant you with its beauty and incredible diversity. My daughter and I took the route from the Schwarzwaldalp through the Rosenlauital valley along the Rychenbach river to the Reichenbach waterfalls, with a detour to the glacial gorge Rosenlaui – a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Starting point – Meiringen
By car: from Bern, take the A8 motorway towards Interlaken/Brienz/Meiringen. Follow the brown sign “Bergbahnen Meiringen” as you exit the road. The large paid parking lot, Parkplatz Talstation Alpbach, is just opposite the bus stop from which your onward journey will lead. All-day parking costs 5 francs.
By public transport: Take the train to Meiringen station, from here take bus 164 to the Schwarzwaldalp stop (see below).
PostBus ride
The trip’s highlight was the ride in the yellow PostBus from Meiringen to the Schwarzwaldalp. In high season (early June to mid-October), the 164 line runs to the Rosenlaui Valley. As I wrote, the Meiringen, Alpbach Parkplatz bus stop is right across the parking lot. The line offers only eight connections daily (every hour, always at x.22, so plan your arrival carefully!). For information on the timetable and timetable, please visit the PostAuto website. A ticket Meiringen, Alpbach Parkplatz – Schwarzwaldalp costs CHF 15.10 with Halb-tax. In the high season (or when the weather is perfect for hiking and more tourists are expected), two buses run consecutively.
The 12-kilometre route can be covered by bus in about 40 minutes. I write “about”, the timetable says 38 minutes, but the winding road is so narrow that opposing bus drivers must wait to avoid each other. Additionally, the warning honk of “tatüü tataa” constantly sounds in your ears to signal their presence to oncoming car drivers, and they often have to wait for the car to reverse to a place where they can avoid each other. But it’s not just because of this that it’s an adventurous ride. The drivers have microphones on and give passengers exciting information about places along the route. Here’s a video of our ride.
Historical water sawmill Schwarzwaldalp
When you arrive at the final stop on the Schwarzwaldalp, you can head to the local historic sawmill, which is over 100 years old. It is open several days a week during the summer months and can be visited. We didn’t know this, so I only took a picture of it from the outside.
Along the Rychenbach river
You then set off on a route along the Rychenbach River. After about a kilometer, there is a nice place to barbecue on the trail. The trail runs along the river in some places, along a path along the road.
Rosenlaui Glacier Gorge
After about two kilometers, you will reach the Rosenlaui Glacier Gorge. It is worth detouring here, even if it adds about 1.5 kilometers. But it’s worth it! Once you’ve bought your tickets (adults CHF 10, children CHF 5), you can refresh yourself for the journey at a local kiosk. They have delicious homemade cakes here; you can buy other homemade products like cheese or syrups.
From 9 May to 30 September 2024, the Gorge is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., and from 1 October to 20 October 2024, it is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
In the gorge, you will be greeted by an impressive waterfall, the strength of which, of course, depends on the weather and the season. You will climb 115 meters through the gorge via 12 tunnels (the longest one is 34 meters long and is even at right angles) and more than 200 steps. On the descent, you follow a gravel path with steps through the mountain forest back to the entrance. Overall, the tour takes about 45 minutes, depending on your pace.
Lunch at Hotel Rosenlaui
The historic Hotel Rosenlaui is just a 5-minute walk from the gorge. On hot summer days, it offers a pleasant outdoor terrace covered by parasols, and although prices are a little higher here, you must try at least something from the local menu.
Rosenlaui Valley
Then (in my opinion) the most beautiful part of the route awaits you. The trail runs almost along the contour of the Rychenbach River. The broad valley of the pale blue glacial river is absolutely breathtaking. Near the Gschwantenmad signpost, you will find another barbecue place.
The varied route follows natural paths (some with roots, others with steps). Shady forest sections alternate with open pastures. From the Kaltenbrunnen restaurant (see photo below), the trail runs along the road for about a kilometer. Yes, it is on the road where cars and buses are avoiding, so be careful.
The descent towards Zwirgi begins when you cross the asphalt road. Be careful; the stones can be slippery!
Reichenbach Falls
Gasthaus Zwirgi is an important signpost. From here, you can either continue to Meiringen on foot (but it’s a really steep descent), by bus, or on scooters. But I recommend you walk another 15 minutes and visit the impressive Reichenbach Falls. From here, down the historic Reichenbachfall-Bahn. Here, you can find a video of what an impressive mass of water it is, especially after the rains. At the end, just take a ride down the historic Reichenbachfall-Bahn.
Summary
- The route including the turn to Gletscherschlucht is 10 kilometres long.
- The length of the route can be adjusted if necessary, as the route in the valley passes the post-bus stops at regular intervals.
- The route is not passable with a stroller.
