“Grüess di, Grüss Gott, Servus, Hallo, Hi…” I must admit, I have never heard so many Austrian greetings during my hikes in Switzerland. But it’s no wonder – the picturesque Appenzellerland, where I finally went on a day trip after almost 11 years in Switzerland, is located just a short distance from the Austrian border. And this is where visitors from the neighborhood (and beyond) often head.
Appenzellerland, consisting of two half-cantons – Appenzell Ausserrhoden and Appenzell Innerrhoden – offers a combination of mountain peaks, crystal-clear lakes, and rolling hills with grazing cows. It is from their milk that the traditional Appenzeller cheese is made, whose secret recipe has been passed down for centuries (more on visiting the cheese factory in the next article!).
But if, in addition to cheese, you are looking for an iconic trip that combines natural beauty and cultural history, don’t miss the route from Ebenalp through the Wildkirchli caves and the legendary Aescher inn to Lake Seealpsee, from where you descend back to Wasserauen.
Appenzellerland – how to get there
The starting point for this hike is Wasserauen. The place is easily accessible by car or public transport, in this case by train. The Ebenalp cable car station is across the road from the train station.
By car: drive to Schwendetalstrasse 82, 9057 Wasserauen, and park in one of the paid parking lots near the valley station of the Ebenalp cable car. Parking costs CHF 3 (up to 3 hours) and CHF 5 (up to 24 hours). I put 4 CHF into the machine and it worked out perfectly for my hike, including a late breakfast at Berghaus Aescher. The parking machine only accepts coins, but you “can” also pay using a mobile app such as EasyPark or Twint, but you’ve probably noticed the quotation marks: the internet signal is very weak here, so you’d better take those coins with you. On busy days, local farmers open their meadows for parking, but beware, as reported in the newspapers in the summer, they may soon charge up to 30 francs for this! In any case, to find a parking space easily, I recommend arriving early in the morning (9 a.m. was fine for me, but it was already autumn and a weekday).
Ebenalp Cable Car
The Ebenalp Cable Car is one of the few that is open almost all year round – except for autumn maintenance (November 24 to December 24). For accurate information on operating hours, check their website. The cable car runs every 15 minutes from around 7:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (depending on the season, in summer until 7:00 p.m.).
For this trip, you will only need a one-way ticket. It costs CHF 24 for adults (CHF 12 with a Halb-fare Card), children under six travel for free, and children from 6 to 15 pay CHF 10 (however, the Junior Card is valid here).
Ebenalp (1,644 m above sea level) is the northernmost tip of the Swiss Alps. Before you set off on your hike, don’t forget to take a look through your binoculars. The views here are fantastic, with Mount Säntis and other impressive peaks of the Alpstein range towering in the distance.
Wildkirchli
On the descent from Ebenalp to the legendary Aescher Guesthouse, you pass through several caves that are not only a natural phenomenon but also a place with a fascinating history. As you will learn from the information boards and illuminated walls, the Wildkirchli caves were inhabited as early as the Stone Age – in 1904, archaeologist Emil Bächler discovered Stone Age tools, proving that our Neanderthal ancestors lived here around 40,000 years ago. The caves served as a refuge for hunters in the summer, while in the winter, they were sought out by cave bears for hibernation.
The Wildkirchli chapel stands on the site of a former hermitage, where hermits have lived since the early 17th century, caring for pilgrims heading into the mountains. Even now, regular services are held here about once a month—the current form of the chapel, dedicated to the Archangel Michael, dates from around 1800.
Berggasthaus Aescher – The Instagram symbol of the region
Berggasthaus Aescher is a very well-known mountain restaurant built on the side of a rock face. Be prepared for it to be really crowded on sunny weekends. Are you wondering how it is actually supplied? At the entrance to the Wildkirchli cave, there is a sign explaining that supplies are still transported by cable car to Ebenalp and from there by transport trolley and manually through the cave – around 100 tons of material per year!
Descent to Seealpsee
“Be careful if you really go on foot… I was there for the first time during this period, and REGA flew every 20 minutes.” This is what my friend wrote to me when I told her that I was setting off on the trail after breakfast and coffee in Aescher. Indeed, this trail can be very dangerous. This is also indicated by a sign at the beginning of the trail, which says that children should be secured with a rope. Many visitors underestimate it, and in 2022, five people died on it, and one person died this year. The trail winds downhill, over rocks and roots, and although it is secured with a rope as a railing in dangerous sections, be careful and don’t overestimate your abilities.
Lake Seealpsee
I admit that when I arrived at the lake, I was a little disappointed and considered adding it to my list of the most overrated spots in Switzerland. But then I realized it was just because the sky was overcast and the blue wasn’t reflecting off the lake’s surface. Nevertheless, I recommend taking a walk around the lake itself – it opens up a slightly different perspective, and the extra mile won’t kill you.
Descent to Wasserauen
For the return trip, I headed towards Klein-Hütten – after a slight climb along a wide path, there were more stairs. Lots of stairs, especially in the lower section from the freight cable car station. At the very end, a view of Wasserauen opens up in front of you, and you can easily walk to the parking lot or train station.
Summary
- The route is just under 8 kilometers long and is not suitable for strollers.
- I recommend sturdy hiking boots and hiking poles.
- The section from Ebenalp to the Aescher restaurant is relatively short (about 700 meters) and easy, making it an ideal choice for those new to hiking who still want to enjoy Alpine views with minimal effort. But beware! There are stairs and uneven terrain. It is therefore not suitable for wheelchairs or people with limited mobility who need assistance walking.
- Alternatively, if you prefer to view Lake Seealpsee without using the cable car, you can walk there from Wasserauen along the service road. It is less than three kilometers (takes about an hour). And then the same way back (or about 1.5 km around the lake).
What to visit after the hike?
Pin this for later
