Schwarzsee in the canton of Fribourg is a favorite among our family – it’s the perfect destination for a day trip when you have small children or visitors with kids. There is a themed trail called Häxewääg around the lake, full of fairy-tale characters such as a dragon, a monk, a night rider, and Muggi the elf, which are sure to entertain children (and, let’s admit it, often adults too).
Although we have visited Schwarzsee several times, most recently during the Covid years, when we also took the more challenging route to Fuchses Schwyberg, I have never heard a mention of Urlandschaft Brecca. Perhaps the marketing of the area has improved since then, but in any case, I was delighted to be able to visit it now and bring you a tip for a trip to a fascinating mountain landscape that was once shaped by glaciers.
How to get to Schwarzsee
Lake Schwarzsee is located in the Gantrisch Nature Park, about an hour’s drive south of Bern. From the A12 motorway, take exit 9 Düdingen in the direction of Tafers/Murten. At the next intersection, turn left towards Schwarzsee/Tafers/Murten. Then follow the signs to Schwarzsee. A large car park is located at the Gypsera restaurant. Parking costs 1 franc/hour, 2 francs/2 hours, 3 francs/3 hours, 4 francs/4 hours, and 5 francs for the whole day.
By public transport, take the train to Fribourg and then take bus no. 123 to the Schwarzsee, Gypsera stop.
Urlandschaft Brecca
Urlandschaft Brecca – or “Brecca’s ancient landscape” – is a wild yet wonderfully peaceful mountain valley that was formed at the end of the last ice age. Glaciers carved out a dramatic landscape with sharp rock peaks, alpine pastures, and streams that wind their way down into the valley. Today, this protected nature reserve is only accessible on foot – no cars, no cable cars directly into the valley. This makes it a pleasant area for an authentic experience without crowds of tourists.
There are two routes to choose from, a short one and a long one. The short one is about 10 kilometers long and takes about 3 hours. The long route is almost 15 kilometers long, is more demanding (not only in terms of time), and takes 4 hours to complete. Plus, in good weather, add time for swimming in the lake, which is an excellent reward for your sore feet. I took the short route.
Chairlift to Riggisalp
The chairlift will take you to Riggisalp (1,493 m above sea level). For this trip, you will only need a one-way ticket. It costs CHF 14 and no discounts (Half-Fare, GA, Junior Card, etc.) apply. However, you can use your Magic Pass here.
Bärghuus Riggisalp
Before setting off on the trail, you can enjoy the views from the lookout point or grab a bite to eat at Bärghuus Riggisalp. Children will love the nice playground right next to it.
Breccaschlund
Head towards Untere Euschels, following the brown signpost Urlandschaft Brecca. After a few dozen meters, you will find yourself in a mountainous landscape between Charmey, Jaun, and Schwarzsee. In summer, you are sure to encounter grazing cows along the way. I walked this route during a heatwave in Switzerland and managed to capture a cow grazing in an unusual position. The video went viral over the weekend, with 1 million views. Don’t believe me? Check it out here.
Alp Untere Euschels
You can take another break at Alphütte Untere Euschels, for example. Then walk around the hut to the right in the direction of Brecca. Cross the mountain stream and start “walking around” the rocky peak of Spitzflue. When you reach Stierenberg, you will be rewarded with views of the lake. The higher you climb, the more beautiful the views will be (at least in my opinion).
Landscape of mountain maples
It is not very common to find deciduous trees at certain altitudes. However, this is what makes the Brecca landscape so interesting. Beautiful, spreading mountain maples give the landscape a completely different character.
Steinige Rippa
Along the way, you will come across two more alpine huts where you can grab a bite to eat. I stopped at the third one, Steinige Rippa. Here, I chose the “Rippa Brättli” from the menu, which is a platter of local cheeses and dried sausages. Delicious!
The way back to the lake
From Steinige Rippa, a relatively steep descent through lush forest vegetation begins back to the lake. Before the next hut, Hubel Rippa, turn right, then continue through the forest for a short while, along a mountain stream, until you reach the point where the trail joins the Häxewääg as mentioned earlier, along the lake. There is a beautiful, large barbecue area here with all the necessary facilities.
Swimming in the lake at the end
The remaining kilometer along the lake shore will fly by, and you can look forward to a pleasant refreshment in the water. If the weather is not suitable for swimming, children can certainly enjoy themselves at the playground.
Summary
- The shorter route is 10.5 kilometers long and takes just over three hours. You can find its elevation profile here.
- If the weather is nice, don’t forget your swimming gear.
- If you’re not interested in hiking at Schwarzsee (which would be a shame, of course, but no one can force you ), you can try a little adrenaline rush on scooters. The route leads from the Riggisalp chairlift station, where you can rent scooters, back to the lake.
- In addition to a playground, there is also a SUP rental and the Gypsera restaurant by the lake.
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